Get to know your local bike store/s!

Bikeshops can be intimidating places - there is often a strange sense of elitist disdain towards a novice cyclist. But don't let that stop you! Once you get into the game, you'll meet people in strange places, suffer with thousands of other novices on Cape 'deathmarches', and you'll laugh at the little snot who gave you grief!  Learn to do as much of your own maintenance as possible - for you will need it out on your ride - but know that your local bike store is brimming with tips and advice on any peculiarities you might experience. Feel free to give them a call, but support them in return!

Make no mistake: there are excellent biking-service providers out there. All you've got to do is to find them! Things to look for in a bike shop are service orientated, friendly and knowledgeable staff offering reasonable prices. Some shops will give you better prices, some very good service. Traditionally, however, the lower the price, the worse the service...

Don't get pressured into upgrading or replacing things, and feel free to get a second opinion. However, it is worth supporting a specific vendor - even spending a bit more – in developing a relationship as in the long run you will benefit when requiring ‘rush jobs’ or needing obscure orders followed up. If it's a buisiness worth supporting, suport it! (If not, move on.)

Buying a bike

The best bike is the one that fits you. It has very little to do with weight, groupsets and/or brand.  In spending time on the bike you will be able to decipher your body’s requirements, and to systematically grow & build your bike accordingly. Please read our article on framesizing. But before we get to the proper framesize, you need to decipher what kind of riding you want to do.

There are a number of applications for bicycles, principally being:

Offroad: cross-country leisure, cross-country racing, downhill, trails, mountain-supercross, bmx motocross, bmx trails, cyclocross, shootouts, night riding etc.
Onroad: racing leisure, full racing, touring & hybrid, bmx flatland.
Track: Bmx Supercross, Mountain Supercross, Velodrome trackcycling.

Before you spend what an unscrupulous bikeshop wants to sell you, consider that it takes a month or six to figure out what type of riding fits your wallet, schedule and your family life. See this as an opportunity to take time and investigate the various options available. In doing so it allows you to budget good money on a helmet, hydration pack and proper cycling gear.

Starting out with a mountainbike is sensible, as it allows both entrylevel offroad and onroad application, allowing you to see more of what’s on offer. A mountainbike typically has a more relaxed frame geometry, and will weather the storm of learning to ride the right gear, picking the correct line, clipping-in and having the embarrassing first fall with.

It probably isn't worth spending R7 000 on a first bike, as you could wear/damage the componentry rapidly without the real benefit of the fancy stuff. A top of the line racer will hurt you – the positioning is set up to be aerodynamically efficient  - read ‘ uncomfortable’ – and it takes getting used to. You will be much better off starting with a properly sized bike set up for comfort (perhaps even 2nd hand).

It is well worth investing in a good frame and to - over time - upgrade (worn) components. Don't jump in on a full-suspension bike, as a worthwhile one cost-a-plenty (the cheap ones are unreliable). In addition, full-sussers require more maintenance and the perfect fit depends more on your riding style than what is the case for hard – tails.

Accept that a hurting butt is a fact of cycling life, but invest in a sensible saddle sooner rather than later. Saddles with a gap in the centre work very well, but there’s no real benefit in the ‘gel’ saddle. A broader saddle will make the ride more comfortable - particularly for women - while a narrower one assists technical riding.

Weight is an issue. However, when considering weight saving componentry, ask yourself whether the investment is worth the money. Sometimes it is, sometimes it’s not. The biggest (and relatively cheapest) weight saving lies in upgrading the frame, but the most noticeable improvement to your bike will lie in investing in the right type of wheels. Know this:  To upgrade is a slippery slope! Like Eddy Merckx said: “Don’t buy upgrades, rather ride up grades!”

I’m sure you will speak to riders with differing opinion, but as a starting point you may accept that V-brakes (MTB) are a very good compromise when not bolting down a mountain at breakneck speed.  Discs are substantially more powerful and have a 'mud - slinging' benefit, but they do cost a lot. The type of riding your confidence will allow you to dowhen starting out, will in all probability not really require the expense of proper discbrakes. Virtually all entry-level MTB’s come with V-brakes. Don't stress about the frame having the option of fitting discs – should you enjoy bicycling you will build a new bike in good time. First get through the interesting growing pains, and that 1st winter on the bike...

Second hand bikes – especially steel frames - can offer exceptional value, as no bike store can afford to give a similar purchase price. But do check it out carefully, for there probably won’t be a returns policy…

She-bikes

Note:  Women generally have longer legs and a shorter torso than men, with the result that a frame sized on leg length would often have a top tube that is simply too long for a female. To address this, go for a frame 2-3 cm ‘smaller’ than what’s indicated by the ‘inside leg length method’ described in our article ‘framesizing’. In addition:

• Shorten the handlebar stem - Replace the handlebar stem (the piece between the fork stem and the handlebars) with a shorter one, as it prevents one from overextending, allows you to move your weight more towards the back of the bike - which helps on the downhill - as well as requiring less arm movement in steering.
• Adjust the brake levers to "take" later - The brake lever should rather be adjusted so that it takes nearer to the handlebar where you can comfortably rest the palms of your hands on the padded bar. Some brake levers include an adjustment screw to make them sit closer to the handlebars as well. It may also help to position the brakes in a flatter position (parallel to the ground) so that you don't have to curl your hands around the bar.
• Invest in a broader & shorter ladies’ saddle - A woman's coccyx simply doesn't fit a male saddle.
• Consider thinner tyres - A lighter person needs a smaller area on which to exert mass to get grip, and thinner tyres will help in sand or mud where they cut through the soft stuff to find the harder support deeper down.
• When setting up the bike inflate tyres less and soften a MTB’s adjustable shock. A lesser weight on the bike means it requires reduced settings, as a stiffer setup bounces more, adds to rolling resistance, discomfort and fatigue.

When upgrading a bicycle

Be warned – upgrading is a wonderfully slippery slope …

Upgrading your saddle is probably the 1st sensible upgrade to consider, but steer clear from ‘gel’ saddles.

Upgrading your wheels will make the biggest difference in the fee of your steed. Unfortunately, this will often only makes sense once you’ve invested in an appropriate frame and groupset…

For off-road applications:

Shimano offers a range of component ranges. The entry-level brands are Acera, Alivio, and 105. Deore and LX are aimed at the weekend warrior, while XT and XTR target serious racers.

Deore is good enough for your shifters and brakes, but many people get away with Acera for years.

LX offers the best value for money on your derailleurs and brakes.

SRAM chains and rear clusters are very good value for money, otherwise Deore or LX.

Acera cranks offer great value if you are relatively light. Deore is a sensible upgrade, but go for XT if you put down a lot of power.

If you find you regularly bend your rims, don't be afraid to buy downhill specific rims. They might weigh a bit more, just like the rider!